How to wash merino wool without ruining it

Merino has a reputation for being difficult. Most of that reputation is unearned. The fibre is actually quite forgiving if you understand two things: it doesn't like heat, and it doesn't like agitation. Get those two right and a merino piece will last years longer than most people expect.

Hand washing is easier than you think ¶

Fill a basin with cool water, add a small amount of wool wash or a mild unscented soap, and submerge the garment. Press it gently into the water rather than rubbing or wringing. Leave it for ten minutes, then drain and refill with clean cool water to rinse. The key word throughout is gentle. Wool fibres felt when they're agitated in warm water, and that process is irreversible.

One wash every four or five wears is usually enough for a roll-neck or jumper worn over a base layer. Merino has natural antibacterial properties that mean it doesn't hold odour the way synthetic fibres do. Airing it out between wears is often sufficient.

Machine washing: when it's safe and when it isn't ¶

Some merino pieces are machine washable on a wool cycle at 30 degrees. Check the care label first. If the label says hand wash only, that instruction exists for a reason, usually because the construction (seams, structure, any non-wool elements) won't survive the machine even on a gentle cycle.

The merino roll-neck currently in the shop is hand wash recommended. The 7-gauge knit is open enough that machine agitation, even on a wool cycle, can distort the texture over time. It's not a disaster if it goes in the machine once, but repeated machine washing will change how it sits.

Drying and storage ¶

Never hang a wet wool garment. The weight of the water will stretch it out of shape, particularly at the shoulders. Lay it flat on a clean towel, reshape it gently to its original dimensions, and leave it to dry away from direct heat. A radiator will dry it faster but risks shrinkage and can make the fibres brittle over time.

For storage between seasons, fold rather than hang, and keep it somewhere with airflow. A cotton bag is better than a sealed plastic one. If you're storing for more than a few months, a cedar block nearby is a reasonable precaution against moth damage, though it's not a guarantee.

The merino roll-neck in slate is in the shop now. If you have questions about care before you buy, ask whoever's on the floor.